Mt. Langley, Inyo National Forest and Sequoia National Park

Class: 1-3

Mileage: Approx 22

Elevation: 14,048

Gain/Loss: 5,000 +/-

They say: Strenuous

We say: Superb

What it is: Another one of California’s Fourteeners, in one long beautiful day. We kept hearing how beautiful this one was, but we just didn’t know HOW beautiful until we saw it with our own eyes. This hike is stunning. We did this as a loop, heading up New Army Pass and returning via Old Army Pass. The jury is still out but I felt Old Army (despite being extremely steep and unmaintained for 30 years and counting) was the prettiest route. We started the hike at 4am with a full moon overhead. Jackie timed it just right as we reached the ridge in time to see the sun rise and approached the pass in alpenglow. The reflection of the light off the numerous lakes was magical. With clear skies and crisp cold air, we climbed up to the top of New Army where we stopped briefly for snacks and to bid farewell to those in the group who had had their fill of altitude for the day. The rest of us split up and picked our routes for the summit push. Word to the wise: west side of Langley– notsofun, north side of Langley – fun. We headed up the class 1 slope as we promised Jackie that we would steer clear of class 3 rock, but we regretted it. The skree slope was so loose that you literally took 2 steps forward and 1 step back. At the top we ate lunch, stared at Mt. Whitney, and called our moms. On the way down we took the class 2/3 climb down the north side, which was quick and painless for those of us comfortable with it (not so much for those who weren’t) and veered to the northeast to take Old Army back down. The views from the Old Army trail were beyond beautiful. We gasped in awe at the beauty, we saw a beaver, we gasped in awe some more, we saw some ducks swimming at 12,000 feet, and jonnie, as expected, swam in his undies in another freezing alpine lake. The last nearly-level 3 miles of the trail felt endless, but we were filled to the brim with happiness from the day, so we didn’t mind. Then we headed down to town for showers and Mexican food.

Please DO: This hike as a loop like we did. It’s totally and unbelievably gratifying.

Please DON’T: Take Old Army when it’s icy, we heard horror stories. Hence, the creation of New Army, by the Forest Service.

What you need to bring: A camera, a group of fun friends who will tell you stories about Burning Man, question the institute of religion, and help you figure out how you need to change your life so you don’t wake up tired every day.

What you want to bring: Salt and Vinegar Potato Trips – new hiking power fuel.

How to get there: Turn left off the 395 to Whitney Portal. About 3 miles up, turn left onto Horseshoe Meadows Road. Follow this up the high and long switchbacks until you reach the top, turn right at sign to Cottonwood Lakes. Trail starts here.

Selaginella, Yosemite National Park

Class: 5.8, Trad

Height of route: Approx 550’

What it is:

Pitch 1: 5.8, 160 feet. Move up the easy and enjoyable cracks heading up and towards the dihedral. Climb the dihedral and surmount a dead snag remnant. Belay on a huge ledge on the left just above the snag. Gear belay.

Pitch 2: 5.8, 100 feet. Move up the cracks toward a right-facing dihedral. Just above this initial dihedral, look for an easy escape left via low angle ramp system. Head left and up and belay at highest tree (gear).

Pitch 3: 5.8, 120 feet. Surmount some flakes just above belay on right and enter a low angle groove/chimney. Re-enter another right-facing dihedral and exit onto a small ledge on left. Clip a new bolt (and/or piton) and step left (crux of route?) onto a large, sloping ledge with embedded "crystals". Gear belay.

Pitch 4: 5.8, 160 feet. Move up the obvious right-facing dihedral with a hand crack. Continue up a series of intermittent small dihedrals with thin cracks. Eventually reach a narrow ledge. Traverse left to a 15 foot flake. Move up the flake and pull onto the rim (there's a Manzanita tree/bush there, and awesome views)

Descent:

From top of route, hike directly uphill for ~150 feet until you reach the obvious Yosemite Falls Trail. Hike the trail left till it brings you down to Camp 4 in about a mile. Hike park road back to your car.

What you need to bring: Your basic rack, rope, chalk, and some tape for your sad knuckles.

What you want to bring: Sunblock! Most of the route isn’t shaded unless you climb in the late afternoon.

How to get there: Either climb one of a dozen or so routes to reach the top of the lower tier of Five Open Books cliffs (i.e. Hanging Teeth). Follow the obvious climbers' path that connects the two. Look for nice cracks formed by flakes trending left towards the huge right-facing dihedral.

Hanging Teeth, Yosemite National Park

Class: 5.8, Trad

Height of climb: Approx 350’

What it is: This memorable climb ascends the most striking corner at Five Open Books. The route is very sustained and hard to protect. Expect 10- to 20-foot runouts. The route is mostly a 5- to 7-inch crack in a huge corner that is usually lie-backed with a section of a 5.8 chimney. The third pitch is the endurance crux and requires sustained 5.7 to 5.8 lie-backing and hand jams. The end appropriately tops out on the dark jagged toothy rocks, i.e. "hanging teeth" and with some nice views.

What you need to bring: Your basic rack, rope, chalk, and some tape for your sad knuckles.

What you want to bring: Some larger pieces of gear to protect the trickier parts of the route.

How to get there: The rightmost of the 5 open books. If you have the supertopo, it's also easy to walk left a short ways and locate the Caverns, easily distinguishable by the toothy block start below the low tree.

Clouds Rest, Yosemite National Park

Class: 1

Mileage: Approx 20.5 miles from Happy Isles TH (22 miles from Curry Village)

Elevation: 9926’

Gain/Loss: 5,821’

They say: Strenuous

We say: Surely.

What it is: We were told that this is the best hike in Yosemite. We were told it beats North Dome, Half Dome and any other dome in Yosemite. We were told that the summit of Clouds Rest is a spiritual experience to any hiker who ventures there. We soon found that each of these claims, even the lofty latter, were true as truth can be. This hike starts at Happy Isles and follows the JMT (or the steeper Mist Trail off-shoot) up past Vernal and Nevada Falls, through Little Yosemite Valley, past the trail to the Half Dome cables, up and up until you reach the rocky, airy, magical summit of Clouds Rest. This mountain deserves all the praise in the world – the views here can be rivaled by none. As the Sherpa and I stood at the top, we remarked, quite assertively, that this could officially be the best view on earth. We very well could’ve seen the most beautiful scenic vista on the face of the planet, that fine September afternoon. The hike up is not one to be taken lightly. We started around 9am, lazily taking coffee down in Curry Village…eating a cheese Danish…around 2 miles from the summit, at a quick 2.5 mph clip, we regretted our casual approach to such a long hike. The 2 mile push to the summit is probably as bad as it gets, but well worth the reward up top. We spent nearly an hour at the summit –which goes down as the longest time we have spent at the top of any mountain. We soaked up the views of the valley, the Cathedral Range, the Hetch Hetchy and Tuolumne backcountry.We didn’t want to leave. As we headed back down the trail, I dragged my feet, staring back into the valley I almost physically felt myself attempting to hold onto this image tightly…the way down is easy as the trail is soft and well maintained, but it felt long and sad…as we realized we left a bit of our hearts back at 9926 feet.

Please DO: This hike. It will change your life. Please – do it.

Please DON’T: Start at 9am. Give yourself time. Channel John Muir…

What you need to bring: A camera. This is the most important thing you could remember on this hike.

What you want to bring: Your usual hiking gear as well. And something special to share at the top.

How to get there: Start at Happy Isles TH and follow the signs!

The South Fork of Big Pine Creek, Inyo National Forest

Class: 3

Mileage: up to 18 miles round trip (to the top of Middle Palisade)

Elevation: up to 14,012’

Gain/Loss: Up to 6,000’

They say: Strenuous

We say: Absolutely

What it is: A route that follows the North Fork of Big Pine Creek towards Brainard Lake, Finger Lake and then the Middle Palisade and Norman Clyde Glaciers. Ultimately this hike gives you access to Middle Palisade, one of the coolest Fourteeners in California (in my humble opinion, that is). The hike begins past the Glacier Lodge, following a residential street (closed off by a gate) and then alongside the creek and then across a field until you reach the steep talus-covered switchbacks up to the saddle. For some reason this part of the hike feels long as you gain significant elevation as you make your way up to the saddle. Once you reach the saddle you’ll be presented with amazing views of the Palisade Crest as well as a beautiful colony of Bristlecone Pines that have made their home here. Follow the trail over the saddle, and down to the cool green basin. You can detour to Willow Lake, or continue on to Brainard Lake. Once at Brainard, you lose the well-maintained trail and follow a use trail (marked by ducks) around the north side of the lake and up the grade to Finger Lake. Here you head to the western end of the long narrow lake, and follow the moraine between the glaciers to either access the glaciers themselves (which you can hop directly onto at any time or traverse a bit of the lower part of either peak) or to the base of Middle Palisade and Norma Clyde Peak. Climb a Fourteener, or march around on a 700 year old Glacier. Then head back the way you came.

Please DO: Research routes to the top of Middle Palisade or Norman Clyde CAREFULLLY before attempting. Most are Class 4, and many find themselves in Class 5 if they don’t proceed carefully.

Please DON’T: attempt the RT to Middle Pal or Norman Clyde in 1 day. Mileage is deceiving on this trail, as is gain. Just because you could do Whitney in 1 day, doesn’t mean you can do these. Truly, the trail is a rough one and the summit climb up either peak has taken up to 12 hours for some fellow climbers.

What you need to bring: A helmet, and ice axe, a small rope and belay if you desire, food, lug soles, warm layers.

What you want to bring: Crampons if you plan to do this in early spring or winter when the moraine is covered and the glacier isn’t sun-cupped.

How to get there: Park at the lower trailhead for the North Fork trail if you plan to spend the night on the mountain (the parking up by the South Forth TH is day use only). Hike up the road, past the entrance for the lodge, and continue on towards the residential cabins where you will see a fence blocking automobile access and an interpretive sign. Trail starts here.

North Fork of Big Pine Creek, Inyo National Forest

Class: 1

Mileage: up to 18 miles.

Elevation: up to approx 12,000’

Gain: up to approx 4,000’

They say: Strenuous

We say: Depending on how far you go…

What it is: A hike to the prettiest lakes on earth (that I’ve seen, at least). This trail carries you past 7 (or 9, if you take a couple detours) glacier lakes in the palisade region. Winding below the longest spine of 13–14,000-foot peaks in the lower 48 states, the views from the hike are legendary. The trail begins at the trailhead off of Glacier Lodge road, in Big Pine. From there, hike a steady grade up along the north fork of the creek until you reach First Falls. Here you can replenish liquids and continue on through a forest of birch trees, winding your way up a gentle grade (and past Lon Chaney’s cabin) until you reach some steep switchbacks heading to First Lake. Follow the loop-ish route from here to all 7 lakes, with detours to Black Lake and Summit Lake if you desire. Each lake is a shocking teal color due to the particles coming down from the Palisade Glacier above. Each lake is home to varieties of golden, rainbow and brown trout. Fish, bask on the rocks or take an icy bone-aching dip in one of the lakes. Go as far as you like, then turn back and return the way you came.

Please DO: Fish in your undies.

Please DON’T: Start this hike later in the day. The first couple miles have zero tree cover, making for a hot start to a long day.

What you need to bring: lug sole hiking shoes, water, snacks, and a camera.

What you want to bring: a big group of loved ones.

How to get there: Park in the trailhead parking area off Glacier Lodge Road. Head straight through the parking lot to the interpretive sign. Trail starts here!

Hidden Canyon, Zion National Park

Class: 3

Mileage: approx. 4 miles.

Elevation: Maybe like 5,400’?

Gain/Loss: Approx 1,200’

They say: Moderately strenuous (because of the quick 850’ gain at the beginning)

We say: Mellow and Marvelous.

What it is: This hike surprised me. After a day hiking the narrows, and then a beer and chip break – we decided to take a little jaunt up Hidden Canyon before dinner. I imagined it to be a brief little hike with views – I was pleasantly surprised. The gain from the start is good, and quickly you are seeing some of the most amazing views of the park. The trail winds around the side of the sandstone cliffs with amazing 2,000 foot drop-offs. The vistas are as exhilarating as they are stunning. Shortly you make your way into the canyon, greeted at the entrance by pools of dark water trapped in the sandstone cliffs. The trail signage informs you that the maintained trail ends soon, and class 3 bouldering and cross-country is required to continue farther. Although there were some class 3 moves up and down boulders in the area, they are minimal with no exposure at all. The about a half a mile after the sign you reach a free standing arch – the pièce de résistance of the whole trip.

Please DO: This hike around sunset. The views are unbearably beautiful, and it makes for a good day’s end.

Please DON’T: Do this hike with the sound of thundering clouds directly overhead, like we did.

What you need to bring: Comfortable shoes, water and a friend.

What you want to bring: a camera.

How to get there: Take the shuttle (or in winter, your car) to the TH for Weeping Rock. Start up the steep trail and follow the sign at the split to Hidden Canyon. If you have time, double back and head over to Observation Point.

The Narrows, Zion National Park

Class: 1

Mileage: 16 miles ONE WAY

Elevation: Not Sure…

Gain/Loss: Approx 1,400’

They say: Moderate to Strenuous

We say: Grand.

What it is: A hike up (or down) the longest slot canyon in Zion National Park. This hike should be on any nature lover’s tick list. The views from the start are unbelievable. Large sandstone cliffs tower 2,000 feet above you as you make your way up (or down) the Virgin River. The scene at every turn continues to astonish as you work your way through hanging gardens, small waterfalls and offshoots of smaller slot canyons. The water is cold, but if done in summer, you can’t ask for a better hike. The hike can be done going UP river or DOWN river. Down requires a permit, and a long shuttle. UP requires no permit, but you must set up a car shuttle OR go out-and-back. The narrowest part of the canyon is towards the top, so plan accordingly if whether is sketchy. Slot canyons in the great basin are home to many flash floods each year, so plan carefully. If you only have a couple hours available to explore – start from the bottom and hike up a couple miles, then turn back the way you came. No matter which way you do it, you won’t be disappointed.

Please DO: Bring a waterproof disposable camera. You’ll be glad you did.

Please DON’T: Underestimate the time it will take to do this hike. Depending on water levels, temperature, weather and (unfortunately – in summer) crowds, your hike time could significantly differ from what you would assume it to be. Sometimes it’s slow-goin’ on slippery rocks…

What you need to bring: Shoes to get soak, trekking poles, a dry sack (youre gonna get wet - especially if youre short) a snack, lightweight synthetic shorts and tank.

What you want to bring: Neoprene socks. If you can come by a pair. They’ll make your feet happy.

How to get there: Take the park shuttle up to the end of its route at the Temple of Sinawava, if you plan to hike UP the river. If you plan to hike DOWN, head to Chamberlain's Ranch is just off North Fork Road on the east side of the park. There is a shuttle TO this trailhead that leaves from Springdale – call the park for details.