Mount Tyndall via Shepards Pass, Inyo National Forest and Sequoia National Park

Class: 1 - 4

Mileage: Approx 24 miles

Elevation: 14,018’

Gain/Loss: Approx 9000’

They say: Extreme

We say: Omg

What it is: One of the highest peaks in the U.S. and one of California’s 15 “Fourteeners”. This mountain is rumored to have one of the most difficult approaches of all the Fourteeners. The rumors are true, folks. The climb starts at Shepards Pass Trailhead and makes its way about 9.5 miles to the pass. Over this minimal mileage you gain nearly 7,000 feet, with a disheartening 800 foot loss in between. You start up the switchbacks (heard there is about 60) and make your way up to the saddle. Then a long and HOT trail over toward Anvil Camp, with more switchbacks thrown in. Anvil is a good stop for water before you make your way through the talus field up the steep climb to Shepards Pass. We had originally toyed with the idea of doing Tyndall in 1 day, but after the trip up to the pass, we were glad we didn’t. It’s a doozy. Once we crossed into Sequoia National Park at the pass, we saw a note from David and Beth directing us down to the lake. We set up base camp by the ice cold alpine lake at around 12,000 feet and hiked up to the base of the Northwest Rib to scope out the direct route to the summit. I had read lots of conflicting information as to which is the best route up – climbing varying from class 2 to class 4 on some moves at the top. We spoke to a couple people we passed on their way down – unfortunately their info was just as conflicting. Then at around 13,000 feet we ran into some friends, Jackie and Mark, who were doing Tyndall in a day, and they confirmed a couple things we knew (i.e. NW rib is the way to go, lots of 3rd class and exposure) and some things we didn’t know (i.e. super scary at times, lots of loose rocks). When we asked the group “would you do it again” we heard the answer “no” echo unanimously. Great. So we headed back down to discuss with the rest of the team who just arrived at base camp. While we all hung our feet in the icy lake (Jonnie was the only one who decided to take a full plunge in his skivvies – that’s why he’s the Sherpa) we discussed our various options based on information read and heard that day. We all collectively decided that the NW Rib was the way to go, and that we’ll just call an audible during the ascent if it gets a too sketchy for the group. We woke up at first light, my alarm didn’t go off but thankfully a little marmot nearby was making enough squeaking noises that I woke promptly at 5:30am. We made breakfast in the freezing high-altitude weather, and began our 2000 foot climb up the mountain up the steep NW Rib.We had fun climbing, chatting the whole way, laughing, warning of falling rocks and ice, telling stories, warning of loose boulders, and so on. In fact we had so much fun that we didn’t realize that we had traversed north way too far, and ended up topping out on the knife-edge ridge right next to the summit block. After the first couple people made their way over and we heard really spooked “Whoa”s from the top, we realized we needed to go a bit west to avoid falling off the east face. This involved a lot of 4th class airy moves that were unexpected and made me cry a little bit. Word to the wise: when taking the NW rib – STAY ON THE RIB. The top of Tyndall houses some of the best views in the Sierras. The trip down was less scary than expected; we found the INTENDED route was marked by ducks, too bad we noticed this on our way down. Lots more loose rocks and I tore a hole in my pants. 4 hours after we started we were back at base camp, eating all we could find and packing up camp for the long steep trip back to the cars. One more word to the wise: when returning to the T.H. in the dead heat of day – BRING BACK UP WATER! We ran out at the saddle and hiked for 2 hours without water until we hit the creek at the switchbacks. I almost cried again. Then we headed down to Boulder Creek RV resort to take a nice cool 5 dollar shower. Sweet.

Please DO: Give yourself time for this mountain. We did 2 days, and I could’ve used a 3rd day to be honest. I would’ve liked to have a day set aside for the summit trip alone, so we wouldn’t feel rushed, so we could nap after climbing 2000 feet at altitude with no ropes. I feel like that’s reasonable, right?

Please DON’T: Underestimate how much water you will consume throughout the duration of this trip

What you need to bring: Sun block, water, food, LOTS of layers (mid 90’s on the trail, low 30’s at night), a smaller pack for your summit push (to carry your camelback and snacks - you won’t want a big pack while climbing the boulders and slabs to the top), your basic camp gear, a small cordlette just in case.

What you want to bring: A climbing helmet. Between the 7 of us, we all owned our own, and we all forgot to bring them. Would feel a lot better to have a helmet on when you hear someone scream “rock” and you’re watching a boulder the size of your mom crash towards your face. Yep…would ‘a been nice…

How to get there: Take Highway 395 to Independence. Go West on Market Street (towards the Sierra Nevada). Market Street becomes Onion Valley Road once you leave Independence. After 4.4 miles, turn left (south) on Foothill Road. Road forks after about 1 mile, follow the right fork. You will see a sign saying "Shepherd's Pass Trailhead". After about 2 more miles, you reach another fork in the road - go right. Two more forks in the road are reached and you will go right at each one and you'll reach the trailhead for Shepherd's Pass.

A room with a view

9 Peak Traverse: San Bernardino East, San Bernardino, Anderson, Shields, Alto Diablo, Charlton, Little Charlton, San Gorgonio, and Dobbs Peaks, San Bernardino National Forest

Class: 1 and 2

Mileage: Approx 26 miles

Elevation: 11,503’

Gain/Loss: Approx 7,500

They say: Extreme

We say: Exxxtreme

What it is: A long day climbing and hiking above 10,000 feet elevation. This route traverses along and over the highest mountains and ridges in SoCal. It starts at the Momyer Trailhead in Forest Falls and follows the trail until you reach the unmaintained East San Bernardino Peak Trail. This trail is underused to say the least, it rarely sees visitors, and the bushwhacking shows it! However we LOVED this trail – why? Because it hauls you up the most significant gain of this route in short-but-sweet fashion. Most of the trail is steep and switchbacks are somewhat of an afterthought. I read that this trail was hard to navigate but found it relatively easy if one is paying attention and taking their bearings every now and again. Bushwhacking is significant as the chaparral was higher than my shoulders. Once you reach the top you traverse left to hit East San Bernardino and San Bernardino, then double back to bag Anderson, Shields, and Alto Diablo. There are some amazing views along the ridge, awesome vistas of San G and San Jacinto. Then head down towards Dollar Lake Saddle before you head back up to Little and Big Charlton, and San Gorgonio. Here it is best to get Jepson on your way to the Vivian Creek Trail. That is, if you have a car shuttle (the distance between Vivian Creek T.H. and Momyer T.H. is about 2.5 miles on road – not awful, but if you don’t have a car shuttle, you might kick yourself after a long day on the mountain). We had a car shuttle set up, but Sherpa Jonnie left his keys in the car we parked at Momyer, so the car parked at Vivian was rendered useless to us. So we made a variation to the standard traverse, and headed down the main Momyer trail (which was pretty, but MUCH longer), and bagged Dobbs on the way down (you can go off-trail down Dobbs ridge as well, or so I’ve heard).

Please DO: Bring lots of water and food. No water sources other than Dollar Lake which is many miles into the traverse, and the water there looks a bit suspect in the summer.

Please DON’T: LOCK YOUR KEYS IN ANOTHER CAR WHEN DOING A CAR SHUTTLE.

What you need to bring: Sun block, water, food, layers.

What you want to bring: Giant Pretzel Bread Baguettes and a nice cheese.

How to get there: Take the 38 East, and then turn right at the junction with Valley of The Falls Road. If you’re setting up a car shuttle, follow this road until it ends, with a large parking lot to your left. Pass the parking lot and head to the smaller lot at the trailhead a couple hundred feet farther up to the Vivian Creek T.H. Then continue back down to Momyer T.H. parking is on the right side of the road (when coming back down from Vivian), a couple hundred yards after you pass the Fire Station. Park here, and don’t forget to display your Adventure Pass – for both cars.

Jonnie taking a break on the San B summit

San Antonio Ridge Traverse, Angeles National Forest

Class: 1-3

Mileage: Approx 16 miles

Elevation: 10,064'

Gain/Loss: Approx 6,000’

They say: Extreme

We say: Wow

What it is: Sherpa Jonnie summarized this route quite well when after 3 hours of making our way through thick brush and loose boulders he exclaimed “This hike is balls”. It is. We can’t say we weren’t warned though; this traverse is ranked as one of the best mountaineering routes in the San Gabriel’s. The hike starts at the summit of Mt. Baldy, making its way over to West baldy, and then down the ridge to Iron Mountain #1. The ridge is easily seen as you descend the first 3 miles of the route, and only becomes less distinguishable at Gunsight Notch, the lowest point on the ridge and the crux of the hike (with consecutive 3rd class moves to get through it). Then it descends down Iron’s south ridge. Most of the route is a bushwack through buckthorn and manzanita OR a climb up and down loose talus. The one good part of this hike is that it takes you through part of the most remote area in the San Gabriel range: the Sheep Wilderness. We’ve heard of these elusive creatures, and have been informed by rangers and avid hikers, that a sighting, is a once in a life time experience. To our surprise, while heading down the ridge, we walked right into a family of them. It took us a couple minutes to collect ourselves and realize that we were REALLY SEEING what we thought we were seeing. We died. We said “no way” about 10 million times. Took a couple pictures. Died some more. Then moved along down the ridge, careful to stay out of the way of our endangered new friends. We tried to do this as an out-and-back to avoid a car shuttle. BAD IDEA. After a couple hours of bushwhacking we decided we were going to call a cab to pick us up at Heaton Flats. Idiots right? No cell service in the Sheep Wilderness. Duh. So we ended up taking a long lunch break (and the Sherpa decided to take off his shirt and bottoms of his pants) and do this for a while, to recharge our strength.

Please DO: Bring a camera, the views from this one are beyond words.

Please DON’T: Do this as an out-and-back unless you have LOADS of water and balls of steel.

What you need to bring: Water, lug soles, lots of sun block, lots of water, electrolytes, layers, water and more water.

What you want to bring: Who knows. Maybe a beer to drink at the end and numb the pain.

How to get there: Exit Baseline Road in Claremont. Turn left on Baseline. In one block turn right onto Padua Avenue. In 1.7 miles turn right at Mt. Baldy Road Continue a few miles up to Maker Flats. Park at upper end of Manker Flats Campground in dirt spots near Falls Road. You’ll need to display your National Forest Adventure Pass to park here.

Looking down the first part of the ridge