Class: 5.8, Trad
Height of climb: Approx 350’
What it is: This memorable climb ascends the most striking corner at Five Open Books. The route is very sustained and hard to protect. Expect 10- to 20-foot runouts. The route is mostly a 5- to 7-inch crack in a huge corner that is usually lie-backed with a section of a 5.8 chimney. The third pitch is the endurance crux and requires sustained 5.7 to 5.8 lie-backing and hand jams. The end appropriately tops out on the dark jagged toothy rocks, i.e. "hanging teeth" and with some nice views.
What you need to bring: Your basic rack, rope, chalk, and some tape for your sad knuckles.
What you want to bring: Some larger pieces of gear to protect the trickier parts of the route.
How to get there: The rightmost of the 5 open books. If you have the supertopo, it's also easy to walk left a short ways and locate the Caverns, easily distinguishable by the toothy block start below the low tree.
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