Mileage: Approx 24 miles
Elevation: 14,018’
Gain/Loss: Approx 9000’
They say: Extreme
We say: Omg
What it is: One of the highest peaks in the U.S. and one of California’s 15 “Fourteeners”. This mountain is rumored to have one of the most difficult approaches of all the Fourteeners. The rumors are true, folks. The climb starts at Shepards Pass Trailhead and makes its way about 9.5 miles to the pass. Over this minimal mileage you gain nearly 7,000 feet, with a disheartening 800 foot loss in between. You start up the switchbacks (heard there is about 60) and make your way up to the saddle. Then a long and HOT trail over toward Anvil Camp, with more switchbacks thrown in. Anvil is a good stop for water before you make your way through the talus field up the steep climb to Shepards Pass. We had originally toyed with the idea of doing Tyndall in 1 day, but after the trip up to the pass, we were glad we didn’t. It’s a doozy. Once we crossed into Sequoia National Park at the pass, we saw a note from David and Beth directing us down to the lake. We set up base camp by the ice cold alpine lake at around 12,000 feet and hiked up to the base of the Northwest Rib to scope out the direct route to the summit. I had read lots of conflicting information as to which is the best route up – climbing varying from class 2 to class 4 on some moves at the top. We spoke to a couple people we passed on their way down – unfortunately their info was just as conflicting. Then at around 13,000 feet we ran into some friends, Jackie and Mark, who were doing Tyndall in a day, and they confirmed a couple things we knew (i.e. NW rib is the way to go, lots of 3rd class and exposure) and some things we didn’t know (i.e. super scary at times, lots of loose rocks). When we asked the group “would you do it again” we heard the answer “no” echo unanimously. Great. So we headed back down to discuss with the rest of the team who just arrived at base camp. While we all hung our feet in the icy lake (Jonnie was the only one who decided to take a full plunge in his skivvies – that’s why he’s the Sherpa) we discussed our various options based on information read and heard that day. We all collectively decided that the NW Rib was the way to go, and that we’ll just call an audible during the ascent if it gets a too sketchy for the group. We woke up at first light, my alarm didn’t go off but thankfully a little marmot nearby was making enough squeaking noises that I woke promptly at 5:30am. We made breakfast in the freezing high-altitude weather, and began our 2000 foot climb up the mountain up the steep NW Rib.We had fun climbing, chatting the whole way, laughing, warning of falling rocks and ice, telling stories, warning of loose boulders, and so on. In fact we had so much fun that we didn’t realize that we had traversed north way too far, and ended up topping out on the knife-edge ridge right next to the summit block. After the first couple people made their way over and we heard really spooked “Whoa”s from the top, we realized we needed to go a bit west to avoid falling off the east face. This involved a lot of 4th class airy moves that were unexpected and made me cry a little bit. Word to the wise: when taking the NW rib – STAY ON THE RIB. The top of Tyndall houses some of the best views in the Sierras. The trip down was less scary than expected; we found the INTENDED route was marked by ducks, too bad we noticed this on our way down. Lots more loose rocks and I tore a hole in my pants. 4 hours after we started we were back at base camp, eating all we could find and packing up camp for the long steep trip back to the cars. One more word to the wise: when returning to the T.H. in the dead heat of day – BRING BACK UP WATER! We ran out at the saddle and hiked for 2 hours without water until we hit the creek at the switchbacks. I almost cried again. Then we headed down to Boulder Creek RV resort to take a nice cool 5 dollar shower. Sweet.
Please DO: Give yourself time for this mountain. We did 2 days, and I could’ve used a 3rd day to be honest. I would’ve liked to have a day set aside for the summit trip alone, so we wouldn’t feel rushed, so we could nap after climbing 2000 feet at altitude with no ropes. I feel like that’s reasonable, right?
Please DON’T: Underestimate how much water you will consume throughout the duration of this trip
What you need to bring: Sun block, water, food, LOTS of layers (mid 90’s on the trail, low 30’s at night), a smaller pack for your summit push (to carry your camelback and snacks - you won’t want a big pack while climbing the boulders and slabs to the top), your basic camp gear, a small cordlette just in case.
What you want to bring: A climbing helmet. Between the 7 of us, we all owned our own, and we all forgot to bring them. Would feel a lot better to have a helmet on when you hear someone scream “rock” and you’re watching a boulder the size of your mom crash towards your face. Yep…would ‘a been nice…
How to get there: Take Highway 395 to Independence. Go West on Market Street (towards the Sierra Nevada). Market Street becomes Onion Valley Road once you leave Independence. After 4.4 miles, turn left (south) on Foothill Road. Road forks after about 1 mile, follow the right fork. You will see a sign saying "Shepherd's Pass Trailhead". After about 2 more miles, you reach another fork in the road - go right. Two more forks in the road are reached and you will go right at each one and you'll reach the trailhead for Shepherd's Pass.
A room with a view
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